In-Store Carding Precautions

Security

    This is one of the most important topic to discuss when planning to card.

• First of all, when arriving to a store, never park in front of the store you are about to shop.
• Why? If someone gets suspicious, they may write down your license plate or if they have cameras outside, you and your car may have been captured by big brother.
• So? Always park far enough so the store cannot see which car you got into. If possible, park around the corner or have someone else drive and wait out of site for you.
• If you are using a buddy system, you can get a 2 way radios or both keep cell phone on you. If shit hits the fan, you can sprint away and have the car meet somewhere nearby.
• Warning. Never run directly towards your car if something bad happens and you have the run because security is probably running after you.
• Always carry a small can of mace or pepper spray key chain size to use it as your get away tool if you security is about or captures you. Problem here is, if they caught you and hold you real tight, you can get into more trouble.

Planning

    1.  Area to Shop and Which Store to Hit.

Always plan ahead before trying to card in specific store. Drive around the targeted area, scout the place for securities and employees pattern. This helps a lot if planning to hit an area fast and securely as it gives you an idea or plan to find the quickest way to escape if all hell breaks loose.

It is not pre-requirement to card, you can just go to any store and try carding. If something happens, just improvise but it is recommended to always plan ahead before trying to do anything.

Commence Carding : Part 1

    Find a good parking spot (refer back to the Security Section). Look around and make a scenario of what to do in you head if shit goes wrong.

    If trouble comes, run the opposite direction of your parked car and loop around, behind the store to your car.

Commence Carding : Part 2

    It's always a good idea to bring spare shirts during carding. After you finished carding the 1st store, change to another shirt and start carding another store.

    If you are being chased, you can take one off (always wear double shirt) to loose your tail.

    Most of the time you will not have problems during carding and tired of walking too far from your car. Even if you are now an experienced carder, carded more than 100 times and never face any problems, never let your guard down.

Additional Information

    Always keep them (securities and employees) guessing of you if they realize that they have been carded. Some people wear hats and glasses. It is better to use normal glasses or just use stage glasses. Never use sunglasses because it looks shady to use them indoors.

    Try to always change your facial hair, grow a mustache, beard, goatee, etc. Always try to look different every time.

    Try to dress to fit in with the crowd. You don't want people to remember you after seeing you the first time.

    One last important rule! Always shop a distance away from your home. You don't want them to catch you on camera and put a picture of you on the news for your family and friends to see and also, you should never go back to the same store with your real information (ID, Driver's License, etc.). Even though they might not catch you, but it's never a mistake to always be safe.

For Newbies

    If you are newbies to carding, never try to card for laptops or any electronic devices during your first run. Start small and go your way up. Always start on clothes because they are easier and way less suspicious.

In-Store Carding Behaviour

    First rule to apply when trying to card to any store. Just say, "This is my card" to yourself and repeat it every time. Always try to convince yourself and make sure you are convinced.

    Remember, being paranoid, scared or nervous is the perfect way to tip off the clerk or any store employee and get busted. Always approach the store as if you are a real customer, wishing to buy something you want or need from that store.

    With each year of increasing security to prevent frauds, it is getting rare to retrieve a dump that can last weeks to use.

When carding in-store, it can go 2 ways; success or fail.

• If Success: Walk away with free items, which means profit.
• If Fail: Your card is declined, need to call for authorization or card gets retained.

1.  Keep yourself cautious.

    Keeping yourself in check is the most important thing when pulling this operation. Always be yourself, keep a calm voice and never say the word "stole/steal/stolen/jacked/hacked" in the store. Remember, you never know who is listening.

    Always park away from the store, example, Walmart have cameras outside the store and can see your license plate in camera angle distance. Thinking you got a away after an operation is a fool if parked in any exposed camera area. If it is reported to the bank, the FBI will surely join the hunt and look up to the camera feed.

2.  The talk.

    Never be scared to talk to the store clerk or employee about the products. If you are a shy person, then act as if you are different person acting out, and you are just an observer from distance. Being friendly to the employee or clerk makes a huge difference.

    Asking questions to break the ice like (for young guys), "What's up bro?", "I went to a party last night and I'm tired" sounds ridiculous? No it is not, it works brilliantly.

3.  Checkout.

    This part should've been in the first part, but it's quite controversial though. Let us get to the point.

    When you first walk in, always observe at the register. See who is working there (male or female, young or old) and try to see what kind of terminal it is (self-swipe, etc) just so you won't run into something you don't want to mess with.

    What ever you do, do not stare over there, it looks stupid and may alert someone because they assume you plan to rob them.

4.  The "Swipe".

    This is the most important part of in-store carding, the swipe. This is where it all goes down. If you have to hand over the card, just give them.

    If there is a problem with your card, just give the "give me" hand gesture over the register, acting like you want the card back and most of the time, they will give it back. If they won't, then tell that you "want", "need" or "require" the card back. Your prints are on the card so always try to get it back.

    If it is a self-swipe, a good trick is to swipe it and put it away as fast (but natural looking) as possible. If there is a problem, the clerk will usually hesitate to ask for the card to compare signatures or whatever they need. It is all just a mind game here.

5.  The "Response".

    There are different result after swiping.

• Approved
• SUCCESS! Sign the electronic screen or receipt and you are on your way. Walk out and never come back.
• Declined
• Your card's fucked. Either your purchase cost is too high. The clerk usually will not suspect the card as stolen, so give them the 2nd card.
• If you don't have 1, ask where the ATM is and say you'll be back. Truth is, just leave.
• Call for Authorization
• Ask for your card back and explain to them that the purchase cost went over your spending limit.
• If it is self-swipe, tell them you have a thing and you don't like to give your card to people because the bank said it to always keep it to yourself or any other stupid logical excuse.
• Calling for authorization is bad news, usually it will only decline, some will say, "What's the name of the individual". Since you don't know, you can lie, telling them that it is you uncle's, aunt's or anyone whom usually close to a person.

6.  Where to Go?

    Security is a big issue. I would recommend you to stay away from malls (especially from malls you usually go to) but if you do, never go back! Although they have employees walking around, most of the time they are looking for shoplifters. They won't have any reason to suspect you unless your banging every store there with a lot of people.

    Any in-store carding experience knows about the last 4 digits of the card. Some POS (Point-of-Sale). Some POS terminals asks the clerk to type in the 4 last digit numbers. If they don't match, don't worry and say this always happen now because you are waiting for a card replacement from bank and say you're sorry because you assumed you can still use it.

    Any large stores like Radio Shack, Circuit City, Best Buy, Hot Topic, some Office Depot, etc. do last 4 digits so try to stay away from them unless you have matching plastics.

    Best places to hit are stores inside of a plaza where there is basically no security besides Law Enforcement patrolling the area, which is okay. Gas stations are very easy but they easily kill the dumps in some cases. Paying at the pump itself is a bad idea.

    It is recommended to do so if you are extremely broke and low on gas to do more carding. Never gas up anywhere with cameras. Next thing you know, you successfully carded a brand new computer but got busted because of a $20 worth of gas.

Card Types & Grades in United Kingdom (U.K.)

    Assuming you readers understand the basics about dumps.

    Here I am sharing another information about it, but focusing more to U.K. and how it is authorized. Right now, we know there are at least 8 different main card types; Visa, MasterCard, Debit Visa, Electron, Solo, Switch, Electron, etc.

    Solo and Switch is similar to Visa Debit.

Solo

    New customers get issued with Solo; they can be upgraded to Switch after 3 to 6 months. Solo will work almost everywhere in Europe as long as retailer POS accepts Cirrus or Maestro.
    I don't really know about using this outside Europe. Dumps concise of 2 and 3 tracks apart from NatWest, which includes all 3 tracks. You can use the dumps until the account is depleted.

    Since most people's wages goes directly into their account, the best date to use is after the 28th each month. (The average wage is £1500 to £2000 ($2500-$400). So start using the dump during the first week of the month.

-  Good part of this type of card is the lack of fraud protection.
-  Negative part is that the card is only limited to U.K and Europe.

Switch

    Similar to Solo, the only difference is Switch can guarantee checks.

Electron

    Similar to Solo, but this card is able to be used anywhere in the world that accepts Electron network.

Debit (Barclay's)

    Here I am focusing more onto Barclay's Debit because most people know what a debit card is (duh).

    They use new pattern spending software to authorize the cards. They are good cards to use in U.K but you have only 1 chance to use it outside Europe. If it doesn't work once, don't even think the 2nd time will work.

Visa and/or MasterCard

    As far as I know, Capital One and Barclay Card offers its lowest limit card of $500. The Barclay's implement pattern matching software, which stops any kind of unusual spending type. Barclay's Visa and MasterCard card will never work abroad.

More Info

    Using the U.K dumps, track 1 and 3 is not necessary. Track 2 is the only track used for authorization.

Basic Info of In-Store Carding

This is not a guide or instruction. Please read for educational purpose only.

So you want to know how they do carding in physical stores?

    Remember, in-store carding is one the fastest way to get money but it requires the carder to keep its head's up for every carding operation.

    This information will provide you some basic knowledge of how carders operate during their shopping trip.

For the beginners/newbies,

    You are probably wondering about this topic and you are reading this for 2 common reason.

1.  You want to learn how to in-store carding.

• To those who have the first reason, they should know some prior knowledge of credit cards before trying in-store carding.
• If you don't, you can read few information I shared from previous posts. 

2.  Want to find and learn something more of anything you are not aware of.

    The most important part of in-store carding is to play your role as the person who wish to buy stuffs. For example, if you are going to a store to buy something worth from $3000 - $5000, you should dress as a real person who would buy at that specific price range. Remember, a real person who are able to buy something worth that much would not be nervous to make that kind of purchase.

Dressing Part.

    This is just common sense. To buy something expensive, the buyer needs to dress and act as if they are really rich.

    First time carder should always purchase clothes as their first time in-store carding. Choosing the right cloth with different variety of future carding is absolute necessary. Wearing the correct cloth is the key importance to successfully card.

Acting Part.

    This is part may come easy or difficult for certain people. Before going in to any targeted store, always prepare yourself of what you may say in different type of situation, either it is good or bad.

    Buying small items that costs below $800 is easier to accomplish. For items with higher price takes more than normal act, the buyer require to appear wealthy and act like a person whom achieved large amounts of money.

Equipment & Tools to Start Carding (ATM, Debit Card, Credit Card, Etc)

All material provided on Site is intended for educational purpose only. It is not a substitute for professional advice and enforce to criminal activities. I will not held responsible for any actions taken from this Site, and it will be user's 100% responsibility to act on the information I am sharing.

1.  First, most crucial equipment needed: Magnetic Stripe Writer

Magnetic Stripe Card Reader & Writer

    Any magnetic stripe card writer will work to do the job as long as it provides the user to write track 1, 2 and 3 to a card (even though not all tracks will be used to write on a card).

Why?

    To write down the dumps after receiving it, either through direct skimming or buying from a reputable dumps seller will require the user to write it on a used or blank PVC card.

2.  Second; Used or New Magnetic Stripe Card

Magnetic Card with/without chip

    Magnetic card are available with 2 options:

1. Card with magnetic stripe only.
2. Card with magnetic stripe and chip.

Why?

    It is vital for carders to have these physical cards ready at all time to start carding because they will start to card in stores where buyers requires to have their physical cards on site (differ from online carders that only need to have the card data), ATM where they will cash out the cards or other way that requires physical card.

3. Third (Optional but Recommended): Skimming Devices & Equipment

• Magnetic Card Reader

Various Size of Magnetic Card Reader

    Any carders who wish to gain real data dumps require a skimmer: card reader. Every magnetic card with written data will always have its data stored on 3 different tracks. These tracks will be read when it is swiped on a reader and the information will be sent to company's database to authenticate the cardholder to its primary functions.

    It can copy the data directly to a computer, laptop or flash storage. Later then, the data copied can be cloned to another card, which can be used to shop for stuff (it is not as simple as it sounds).

    More info about Tracks on Magnetic Card

• Pin Pad with Memory or Transmission Capabilities

Pin Pad

    Pin Pad is always a better option to obtain the PIN of the cardholder after retrieving the card data. With better technology today, criminals are able to obtain your PIN directly after you typed in your PIN to the ATM machine.

    It transmits the recorded PIN using GSM network directly to the criminal's phone. During the old days, they usually store the data to a flash storage located underneath the pin pad and the only way to retrieve the data is to retrieve the pin pad itself.

• Mini Digital Camera

Mini Digital Camera

    Mini digital camera helps a lot during the old days to obtain the PIN of a card after the a person inserted their card into an ATM machine. When people usually do not cover their PIN code, the criminals are able to retrieve their card data + PIN.

    After retrieving all the necessary data, the skimmer are able to use their card in any ATM and stores without being suspected to tamper the ATM machine at all.

    In other word, free money.

• Partner or Team

Partner or Team

    With a partner or team to act on skimming, it is possible to peak, distract, anything that requires social engineering to acquire their card and PIN.

    Details for techniques will not be discussed here.

4.  Fourth (Important Role): Money

Money

    That is correct! Money is required to start skimming. To those who doesn't view skimming, carding or any other criminal activity related with white collar crime as a bad thing means it is just another dirty business.

    Any business always require capital to start. There are obviously no minimum capital to start skimming. It all depends on the person or team itself, on how much they are willing to invest their time and energy to conduct this crime.

Problems with Checking Dumps Validity

    Most common problems when dealing in store carding is knowing if the dumps in the card is valid or not.

Why do the enemy needs to check the card validity?

    1. To keep expenses down. (Carders require to make fake ID, print and emboss a plastic card according to the data dump so the store clerk can verify and and authenticate the carder to purchasing using that card).

    2. Have successful purchase in their targeted store.

    3. To verify the authenticity of the seller.

    4. To know the card is alive and can be used.

Reasons Why Don't Use Dump Checker:

    1. Almost all full track or dump checker is just another simple CVV checker. Any checker that requires the card number and the expire date is a simple CVV checker. (If checking a dump requires you to pay $1, it is not worth it).

    2. Almost all online checker will kill the dump. This usually happens because online checker are connected to a donation site, so during the moment the card is being checked, it is the same time the card is being used to for some stuff and the card issuer will decline the transaction.

    3. Some checkers are connected to fake merchants. The problem here is, usually the merchant is blacklisted by the card issuer, so when the card is checked, it will automatically kill the card.

    4. Any kind of checker that requires the card number and the expire date is not a dump checker.

    5. Some checkers are just stealing dumps. These kind of fake checker will usually respond with "05 Declined". The checkers also request to input the full track.

    6. There are only a few checkers which are not killing the dump. These kind of checkers are respectable in the carding world, which are using real merchants and change the merchants regularly to avoid getting merchants blacklisted. The problem with these checkers, they are usually closed circuit and in big private forums, which requires vouches from old existing members to register new account.

       Almost all of them are hidden in search engines.

So How to Check the Dumps Without Killing the Dumps?

    The most simple, yet most effective way is to call the bank issuer of the card.

10 Most Common Mistakes Made Newbie or Careless Carders

• Makes random purchases without considering the size, style, color or price (for fashion objects).

• Too talkative or delaying a selection repeatedly until the store clerk is upset.

• Hurries the store clerk and pushes too much.

• Purchases large size items (television, and other similar objects) and demands on taking the item personally rather than having it delivered.

• Refuses cloth alteration (for fashion objects) even though they are included in the price.

• Purchases an extended warranty without hesitation, even though it cost a lot.

• Makes purchases, leaves the store and then returns to the same store to make another purchase.

• Is not well dress but purchases expensive items.

• Pulls out the credit card from pocket and not from their wallet.

• Does not have a driver or ID license. If they claim they do, they say it is in the car (aka, too many reasons).

Carding with 201 Dumps

First of all, I would like to say that writing 201 dumps on to a chip is quite unrealistic with the current technology that is available. But I want to discuss an alternative route - I would like to give you a hint how to use 201 dumps everywhere - even in such places where POS terminal requires a chip and a subsequent PIN to be used.

• First thing we should have is a card with a chip and magnetic stripe.

• Then we have to look for a 12 Volt AC adapter.
• Now all we have to do is to scratch a little chip metal contacts with + and - of the adapter.
• After a spark happens during the contact, it means it is good.
• After this little alteration the chip should not be working any more and this is exactly what we need. 

Now we have to encode 201 track to the regular magnetic stripe of the card and safely go out to shop. When the clerk tries to insert the card with the chip he/she gets a nice error (additionally you can give him a reason that you washed your wallet with the card and chip is not working), and now most interesting part - once the terminal detects that chip is not functioning it switches back to magnetic stripe mode and allows you to swipe the card, all you have to do is to persuade the cashier to do it. Done!

Glossary of Buyer/Seller Terms in Carding

Base:

An arbitrary name that a seller assigns to a unique batch of cards hacked from a particular compromised merchant or a mix of merchants. Most often, bases are named after the state or region of the compromised merchant. Base names allow dumps shop owners to have a consistent naming convention when adding freshly hacked cards from a specific breached merchant. In addition, base names allow happy customers to have an easy way to come back to the seller and request more of the same cards; conversely, buyers who have little success “cashing out” cards from a particular base have a frame of reference with which to warn other potential buyers away from a specific batch of cards (bad cards = “brown acid“).

BINs:

Short for “Bank Identification Number,” this is the first six digits of any debit or credit credit cards, and it uniquely identifies the financial institution that issued the card. BINs are the primary method that sellers use to index cards for sale, and all buyers have their favorite BINs with which they’ve found success in the past. There are tens of thousands of BINs in use today, and few people legitimately employed in the banking industry have comprehensive BIN lists (which most banks consider proprietary). For that, you typically need to turn to the professional sellers, which track BIN usage quite closely.

Checker:

A form of buyer’s insurance, this is an automated, optional service that customers can use after purchasing cards to validate whether the cards they just bought are still active. Most sellers have “money-back” guarantees in place that will automatically refund the purchase price for any cards found to be invalid shortly after the cards are bought (usually a window of a few minutes up to a few hours is given to buyers to check and replace cards).

Dump:

Refers to a string of data that is pulled (usually by malicious software that infects cash registers or point-of-sale devices inside compromised merchants) from the magnetic stripe on the back of cards. Buyers typically receive a text file that includes all of their dumps. Those individual dumps records — when encoded onto a new magnetic stripe on virtually anything the size of a credit card — can be used to purchase merchandise in stores.

Packs:

Large bundles of dumps (often from a variety of hacked merchants in a particular region) — sold at wholesale prices which is usually discounted.

First-Hand Base:

A batch of cards hacked from a merchant breach in which the seller himself played a key role.

Reseller:

Most sellers rely on multiple suppliers of hacked cards. Contrary to the conventional meaning of the word, these hackers are supplying cards that are not sold anywhere else; once a card is sold, it is removed from the marketplace, and any suppliers found to be double dipping are quickly banned from the dumps community. Rather, resellers are merely hacking the cards and then selling them to the main verified seller.

Valid Rate:

The dumps store’s best guess about the percentage of cards from a given base that will come back as valid versus canceled by the issuing bank. If a base is advertised at a 80 percent valid rate, customers can expect an average 8 out of every 10 cards they buy from that base to be working and valid. Cards advertised at valid rates in excess of 90 percent typically demand the highest prices, and are a strong indicator of a breach that has only just been discovered by the breached merchant or some of the larger financial institutions.

Most Common Card Data Hacking Methods

There are numerous ways to have our credit cards stolen and it originates to two primary methods:

1. Skimmers.

• A hardware skimmer device placed over a card port on an ATM or gas pump (certain countries allows consumer to buy gas directly with their card).
• "We will discuss more about skimmers after this post".
• During the old days, the Enemy must acquire back their skimmers to retrieve the data they have stolen (because it is stored manually inside the skimmer).
• Now with better technology, skimmers are able to retrieve data wireless with GSM or Bluetooth function.
• Skimmers are sold to match the manufacturer and model of ATM being targeted. Since ATM manufacturers publicly release new bank contracts, criminals are able to plan skimmer placement before new ATMs are even installed.
• Soft skimmers is a device placed on a POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service) circuit in order to intercept the data in transit.
• Stand-alone ATMs in convenience stores or hotel lobbies may rely on modems for communication with a merchant network.
• After recording the tones on these phone lines, Enemies use widely available software to convert the tones to digital data, specifically credit card numbers.

    2.  Network Breaches

• Point of Sale (POS) terminals used in retail outlets were exploited through vulnerabilities in the underlying operating system that these terminals use.
• Failure to patch the operating system has led to remote exploitation via freely available hacker tools.
• Data ex-filtration has occurred for months before the merchant discovered or was alerted to the tainted POS terminal.

    Criminals continue to aggressively hunt for large amounts of card track data either in storage or in transit. Once a target is identified, the compromise is only a matter of time and resources. Today, financial databases and networks continue to fall victim to the most motivated and talented hackers. Previously, compromises have existed for over a year before the breach was discovered. The purveyors of this data will quickly become rich, as will the end users who purchase the data for coordinated exploitation.